How can I best take pictures of a moving speaker in a dark room with accent lights? Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Planned maintenance scheduled April 23, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern) Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteHow can I take pictures of far-away mountains to the South?How to take fast-shutter-speed photos that aren't dark?How to take pictures in a dark room?How can I take long exposure photos with a webcam?Can a consumer-grade camera take good aurora pictures?Can I use auto exposure with studio lights?How to shoot bright purple lights against an overall dark scene?How can I take a photo of a dark bar with a bright sign?How can I shoot in a semi-dark room without very long shutter speeds?How to take a dark photo of a dark room?
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How can I best take pictures of a moving speaker in a dark room with accent lights?
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Planned maintenance scheduled April 23, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)
Proposal: Rules for *New* Photo Contest on Main SiteHow can I take pictures of far-away mountains to the South?How to take fast-shutter-speed photos that aren't dark?How to take pictures in a dark room?How can I take long exposure photos with a webcam?Can a consumer-grade camera take good aurora pictures?Can I use auto exposure with studio lights?How to shoot bright purple lights against an overall dark scene?How can I take a photo of a dark bar with a bright sign?How can I shoot in a semi-dark room without very long shutter speeds?How to take a dark photo of a dark room?
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I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:
I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures
I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.
exposure
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
New contributor
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment |
I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:
I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures
I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.
exposure
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
New contributor
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
5 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
5 hours ago
add a comment |
I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:
I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures
I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.
exposure
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
New contributor
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
I’m taking pictures this Sunday at my church of the youth pastor preaching and in the youth room is a semi-lit type of room with a lot of accent colour lights. He’s going to be moving and I want to get shots to freeze the action so I know I need a high shutter speed but this is where I’m stuck:
I’ll be standing about 10-15 feet from the stage so I’m not sure what aperture to use and I want to have that nice bokeh background but I want to make sure he’s totally in focus(I have a 50mm prime 1.8 lens) and I’m not sure what ISO to use to avoid a lot of noise. I have Lightroom to bump up any pictures
I’m looking for past experiences and what you guys did to overcome some issues you ran into.
exposure
exposure
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
New contributor
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
New contributor
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
edited 4 hours ago
mattdm
123k40359656
123k40359656
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
New contributor
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
asked 5 hours ago
NateNate
62
62
New contributor
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Nate is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
5 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
5 hours ago
add a comment |
1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
5 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
5 hours ago
1
1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
5 hours ago
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
5 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
5 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
5 hours ago
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
5 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
5 hours ago
add a comment |
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
add a comment |
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2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
5 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
5 hours ago
add a comment |
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
5 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
5 hours ago
add a comment |
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
Bumping up pictures in post will introduce more noise than bumping up ISO in camera. Do not be afraid of high ISOs if there is no way to avoid them.
For decent background separation. use the widest aperture that you can.
If he does not move too much (i.e. wildly gesticulating), 1/250s should be more than enough.
Also: It is your decision entirely, but do not be afraid of motion blur - while having arms blurred out of existence might be a bad thing, having a slight blur might give a more dynamic look.
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
answered 5 hours ago
floliloflolilo
5,57811839
5,57811839
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
5 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
5 hours ago
add a comment |
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
5 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
5 hours ago
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
5 hours ago
Thanks for that! That’s really great to know! My only concern with a wide aperture is not totally disconnecting him from the background. Like parts of him appearing slightly blurry, I’ve seen people recommend an aperture of 2.8 but I guess it’ll come down to playing with it. Thanks!
– Nate
5 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
5 hours ago
@Nate You can get a decent feeling for the effect of apertures even by shooting inanimate objects - it was one of the first things I did when getting a cam, and I did it mostly by shooting plants. And if you want it on paper: There are apps and web sites to calculate the DOF - just look for "DOF calculator". :-)
– flolilo
5 hours ago
add a comment |
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
add a comment |
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
add a comment |
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
If you can get in there beforehand & do some tests, that will benefit greatly.
You need to check for several things...
that the camera can even find focus in low light, especially if your subject is not going to be specifically lit.
that your mood lighting is not going to have to be sacrificed [either by burning it right out or adding additional subject lighting] in order to get your subject bright enough.
that you can balance high ISO against this in such a way as your darker areas are not going to be awash with noise.
do some colour tests, preferably using a volunteer for skin-tones, if not also a grey card held by the volunteer, so you can set your white balance beforehand; otherwise the mood lighting might adversely influence your tones - differently for every shot.
if you can achieve all the above, then test different focussing & light sensor modes on your camera, if available. You may end up using AF-continuous [or sport] mode to follow your subject whilst in motion, spot-metering so your subject is prioritised over anything else - or you may even end up on manual or aperture-preferred, to save the camera from making wildly different decisions per shot.
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
answered 4 hours ago
TetsujinTetsujin
8,19821948
8,19821948
add a comment |
add a comment |
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1
How dark is 'semi-lit'? Will you have any chance to get in there beforehand & check the camera will even focus in that light?
– Tetsujin
5 hours ago
I will yes. By semi lit I meant main lights are off and the mood lights are filling in the dark, kind of hard to explain
– Nate
5 hours ago