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LED on same Pin as Toggle Switch, not illuminating


how to calculate correct resistor value to use with LEDs Potentiometer and other devices?Source power with 2 V and LED with forward voltage of 2 V7-Segment Common AnodeConnecting a switch and a MOSFET to an Arduino?Multi-LED Toggle SwitchWhy adding a LED between Pin 3 and Ground causes LCD display not to show text?Getting more current through an LED arraydigitalRead not reading input pin of ESP8266-01Yellow LED got burned, green LED didn'tProblem : Trigger limit switch to stop DC motor













0















I am trying to do something I think should be relatively simple. I would like to read an input from a toggle switch, and have a red 5mm LED indicate the state of the switch. Rather, however, than have an input for the switch and an output for the LED (controlled by software), I'd like to put them in series on a single circuit. That is, flip the toggle and current flows from the 5v source on the Arduino Uno through an LED and to an input pin on the Arduino. (I would ultimately like to have eight such switches; I am trying to create a sort of simulated byte, with individually flippable bits controlled by toggles; this will be read by a GTK Python program, that can interpret that "byte" in different ways: as a decimal value, a hex value, an ASCII character, a color in 8-bit color space, etc).



So, I have an LED with a 200 Ohm current-limiting resistor. I also have a pull-down resistor (1k) to prevent the toggle from floating.



My results, however, have been inconsistent. Using a breadboard, I've gotten this working. But it seems very fragile, and sometimes when I rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, it doesn't work as expected. Right now, for instance, the switch seems to work, and I am reading the expected value from the Serial Monitor--but the LED is not illuminating.



I had been playing around with different values for the pull-down resistor and the current-limiting resistor. This pair (200-ohm current limiting; 1k pull down) seemed to work, but now isn't. (I have swapped out the LED; and current is passing through the LED, otherwise I wouldn't be able to read the correct pin value--I think.)



Is there something I'm not understanding? Does the position of the current limiting resistor (before/after the LED) make any difference (I assume not)? Does this seem like the correct setup for what I'm trying to achieve? More generally, should, in principle, this approach scale to 8 more toggle/LED pairs? Is there a better/smarter approach? Is there a reason why I see so few Arduino projects that put LEDs in series with an input toggle?



The breadboard looks like this:



BreadBoard Image










share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

    – Jot
    yesterday











  • Can you post your code? You might have switch bounce. An even number of bounces could cancel a press, and an odd number would effectively count as one press.

    – Nick Gammon
    22 hours ago















0















I am trying to do something I think should be relatively simple. I would like to read an input from a toggle switch, and have a red 5mm LED indicate the state of the switch. Rather, however, than have an input for the switch and an output for the LED (controlled by software), I'd like to put them in series on a single circuit. That is, flip the toggle and current flows from the 5v source on the Arduino Uno through an LED and to an input pin on the Arduino. (I would ultimately like to have eight such switches; I am trying to create a sort of simulated byte, with individually flippable bits controlled by toggles; this will be read by a GTK Python program, that can interpret that "byte" in different ways: as a decimal value, a hex value, an ASCII character, a color in 8-bit color space, etc).



So, I have an LED with a 200 Ohm current-limiting resistor. I also have a pull-down resistor (1k) to prevent the toggle from floating.



My results, however, have been inconsistent. Using a breadboard, I've gotten this working. But it seems very fragile, and sometimes when I rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, it doesn't work as expected. Right now, for instance, the switch seems to work, and I am reading the expected value from the Serial Monitor--but the LED is not illuminating.



I had been playing around with different values for the pull-down resistor and the current-limiting resistor. This pair (200-ohm current limiting; 1k pull down) seemed to work, but now isn't. (I have swapped out the LED; and current is passing through the LED, otherwise I wouldn't be able to read the correct pin value--I think.)



Is there something I'm not understanding? Does the position of the current limiting resistor (before/after the LED) make any difference (I assume not)? Does this seem like the correct setup for what I'm trying to achieve? More generally, should, in principle, this approach scale to 8 more toggle/LED pairs? Is there a better/smarter approach? Is there a reason why I see so few Arduino projects that put LEDs in series with an input toggle?



The breadboard looks like this:



BreadBoard Image










share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




















  • Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

    – Jot
    yesterday











  • Can you post your code? You might have switch bounce. An even number of bounces could cancel a press, and an odd number would effectively count as one press.

    – Nick Gammon
    22 hours ago













0












0








0








I am trying to do something I think should be relatively simple. I would like to read an input from a toggle switch, and have a red 5mm LED indicate the state of the switch. Rather, however, than have an input for the switch and an output for the LED (controlled by software), I'd like to put them in series on a single circuit. That is, flip the toggle and current flows from the 5v source on the Arduino Uno through an LED and to an input pin on the Arduino. (I would ultimately like to have eight such switches; I am trying to create a sort of simulated byte, with individually flippable bits controlled by toggles; this will be read by a GTK Python program, that can interpret that "byte" in different ways: as a decimal value, a hex value, an ASCII character, a color in 8-bit color space, etc).



So, I have an LED with a 200 Ohm current-limiting resistor. I also have a pull-down resistor (1k) to prevent the toggle from floating.



My results, however, have been inconsistent. Using a breadboard, I've gotten this working. But it seems very fragile, and sometimes when I rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, it doesn't work as expected. Right now, for instance, the switch seems to work, and I am reading the expected value from the Serial Monitor--but the LED is not illuminating.



I had been playing around with different values for the pull-down resistor and the current-limiting resistor. This pair (200-ohm current limiting; 1k pull down) seemed to work, but now isn't. (I have swapped out the LED; and current is passing through the LED, otherwise I wouldn't be able to read the correct pin value--I think.)



Is there something I'm not understanding? Does the position of the current limiting resistor (before/after the LED) make any difference (I assume not)? Does this seem like the correct setup for what I'm trying to achieve? More generally, should, in principle, this approach scale to 8 more toggle/LED pairs? Is there a better/smarter approach? Is there a reason why I see so few Arduino projects that put LEDs in series with an input toggle?



The breadboard looks like this:



BreadBoard Image










share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I am trying to do something I think should be relatively simple. I would like to read an input from a toggle switch, and have a red 5mm LED indicate the state of the switch. Rather, however, than have an input for the switch and an output for the LED (controlled by software), I'd like to put them in series on a single circuit. That is, flip the toggle and current flows from the 5v source on the Arduino Uno through an LED and to an input pin on the Arduino. (I would ultimately like to have eight such switches; I am trying to create a sort of simulated byte, with individually flippable bits controlled by toggles; this will be read by a GTK Python program, that can interpret that "byte" in different ways: as a decimal value, a hex value, an ASCII character, a color in 8-bit color space, etc).



So, I have an LED with a 200 Ohm current-limiting resistor. I also have a pull-down resistor (1k) to prevent the toggle from floating.



My results, however, have been inconsistent. Using a breadboard, I've gotten this working. But it seems very fragile, and sometimes when I rebuild the circuit on a breadboard, it doesn't work as expected. Right now, for instance, the switch seems to work, and I am reading the expected value from the Serial Monitor--but the LED is not illuminating.



I had been playing around with different values for the pull-down resistor and the current-limiting resistor. This pair (200-ohm current limiting; 1k pull down) seemed to work, but now isn't. (I have swapped out the LED; and current is passing through the LED, otherwise I wouldn't be able to read the correct pin value--I think.)



Is there something I'm not understanding? Does the position of the current limiting resistor (before/after the LED) make any difference (I assume not)? Does this seem like the correct setup for what I'm trying to achieve? More generally, should, in principle, this approach scale to 8 more toggle/LED pairs? Is there a better/smarter approach? Is there a reason why I see so few Arduino projects that put LEDs in series with an input toggle?



The breadboard looks like this:



BreadBoard Image







arduino-uno led switch






share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question







New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question






New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.









asked yesterday









cforstercforster

1033




1033




New contributor




cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





New contributor





cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






cforster is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












  • Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

    – Jot
    yesterday











  • Can you post your code? You might have switch bounce. An even number of bounces could cancel a press, and an odd number would effectively count as one press.

    – Nick Gammon
    22 hours ago

















  • Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

    – Jot
    yesterday











  • Can you post your code? You might have switch bounce. An even number of bounces could cancel a press, and an odd number would effectively count as one press.

    – Nick Gammon
    22 hours ago
















Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

– Jot
yesterday





Do you want to turn the led on and off regardless of the switch as well? Or do you only want to read the switch (and the switch turns the led on and off).

– Jot
yesterday













Can you post your code? You might have switch bounce. An even number of bounces could cancel a press, and an odd number would effectively count as one press.

– Nick Gammon
22 hours ago





Can you post your code? You might have switch bounce. An even number of bounces could cancel a press, and an odd number would effectively count as one press.

– Nick Gammon
22 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















3














LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



So:



Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

= (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

= 3 * (1000 / 1200)

= 3 * 0.833

= 2.5V


The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.






share|improve this answer























  • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

    – cforster
    yesterday


















0














This is your circuit that does not work:





schematic





simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab



There are many ways to use a single pin. Some circuits are with a diode and some circuits need to turn off the led to read the switch. The most simple solution might be this:





schematic





simulate this circuit



When the switch is not closed, the LED is a weak pullup (perhaps too weak). By using INPUT_PULLUP for D7, the pullup is stronger and D7 can read the switch.

As an extra it is possible to turn the LED on when the switch is open. But you have to be sure to switch between OUTPUT + LOW and INPUT_PULLUP in the code or else there is a shortcut.






share|improve this answer























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    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    3














    LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



    You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



    So:



    Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

    = (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

    = 3 * (1000 / 1200)

    = 3 * 0.833

    = 2.5V


    The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



    You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



    The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.






    share|improve this answer























    • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

      – cforster
      yesterday















    3














    LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



    You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



    So:



    Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

    = (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

    = 3 * (1000 / 1200)

    = 3 * 0.833

    = 2.5V


    The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



    You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



    The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.






    share|improve this answer























    • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

      – cforster
      yesterday













    3












    3








    3







    LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



    You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



    So:



    Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

    = (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

    = 3 * (1000 / 1200)

    = 3 * 0.833

    = 2.5V


    The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



    You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



    The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.






    share|improve this answer













    LEDs have a (fairly) fixed voltage drop across them. The red LED is about 2V.



    You can use that to work out the voltage at the input. You basically have a voltage divider, with your 200Ω resistor as R1, and your 1kΩ resistor as R2. The voltage drop of the diode is subtracted from Vin.



    So:



    Vout = (Vin - Vled) * (R2 / (R1 + R2))

    = (5 - 2) * (1000 / (200 + 1000))

    = 3 * (1000 / 1200)

    = 3 * 0.833

    = 2.5V


    The ATMega328P datasheet states that a HIGH input voltage must be over 0.6*Vcc, and a LOW input voltage must be below 0.3*Vcc. That means to register a HIGH you need more than 3V. To register a LOW you need less than 1.5V.



    You're between those two voltages - in the "dead zone".



    The simplest way to achieve what you want is to use a douple-pole switch and keep the LED completely separate from the Arduino.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered yesterday









    MajenkoMajenko

    69.4k43277




    69.4k43277












    • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

      – cforster
      yesterday

















    • Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

      – cforster
      yesterday
















    Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

    – cforster
    yesterday





    Using a double-pole switch seems indeed the smarter approach here. Thanks. I see your logic... but it doesn't account for my case, however, where I am getting the correct input on the Arduino--the LED is not illuminating. The dead zone you note would be like a floating pin, no?

    – cforster
    yesterday











    0














    This is your circuit that does not work:





    schematic





    simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab



    There are many ways to use a single pin. Some circuits are with a diode and some circuits need to turn off the led to read the switch. The most simple solution might be this:





    schematic





    simulate this circuit



    When the switch is not closed, the LED is a weak pullup (perhaps too weak). By using INPUT_PULLUP for D7, the pullup is stronger and D7 can read the switch.

    As an extra it is possible to turn the LED on when the switch is open. But you have to be sure to switch between OUTPUT + LOW and INPUT_PULLUP in the code or else there is a shortcut.






    share|improve this answer



























      0














      This is your circuit that does not work:





      schematic





      simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab



      There are many ways to use a single pin. Some circuits are with a diode and some circuits need to turn off the led to read the switch. The most simple solution might be this:





      schematic





      simulate this circuit



      When the switch is not closed, the LED is a weak pullup (perhaps too weak). By using INPUT_PULLUP for D7, the pullup is stronger and D7 can read the switch.

      As an extra it is possible to turn the LED on when the switch is open. But you have to be sure to switch between OUTPUT + LOW and INPUT_PULLUP in the code or else there is a shortcut.






      share|improve this answer

























        0












        0








        0







        This is your circuit that does not work:





        schematic





        simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab



        There are many ways to use a single pin. Some circuits are with a diode and some circuits need to turn off the led to read the switch. The most simple solution might be this:





        schematic





        simulate this circuit



        When the switch is not closed, the LED is a weak pullup (perhaps too weak). By using INPUT_PULLUP for D7, the pullup is stronger and D7 can read the switch.

        As an extra it is possible to turn the LED on when the switch is open. But you have to be sure to switch between OUTPUT + LOW and INPUT_PULLUP in the code or else there is a shortcut.






        share|improve this answer













        This is your circuit that does not work:





        schematic





        simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab



        There are many ways to use a single pin. Some circuits are with a diode and some circuits need to turn off the led to read the switch. The most simple solution might be this:





        schematic





        simulate this circuit



        When the switch is not closed, the LED is a weak pullup (perhaps too weak). By using INPUT_PULLUP for D7, the pullup is stronger and D7 can read the switch.

        As an extra it is possible to turn the LED on when the switch is open. But you have to be sure to switch between OUTPUT + LOW and INPUT_PULLUP in the code or else there is a shortcut.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 22 hours ago









        JotJot

        2,7861618




        2,7861618




















            cforster is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.









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